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VIBSLICK0.1PACK
Vibe SLICK0.1PACK includes a SLR12 12 inch Woofer, A0 2 Channel Amplifier, and an Amp Kit VIB - SLICK0.1PACK
MSRP
$469.99
Hawk Express
$469.99
   More Info...

VIBSLICK2.1PACK
Vibe SLICK2.1PACK SLR12 12 inch Woofer, A1 4 Channel Amplifier, 69.3 6 x 9 inch Speakers and an Amp Kit VIB - SLICK2.1PACK
MSRP
$619.99
Hawk Express
$619.99
   More Info...


Installing an Amplifier
:
Click here to browse or selection of professional quality amplifier installation kits.

 Planning.

1)  Decide where you are going to mount the amplifier(s). Select a location for the amplifier that gets some air circulation, such as under a seat or in the trunk.

2)  Decide how much, and what gauge power cable you will need.  When deciding how much power cable, think about how you will run the cables first.  Refer to the owner's manual for the size of the power and ground cables to use.  We recommend buying a Hooker amplifier installation kit to make your job easier.  It comes with all the parts necessary to install you amp, including power cable, ground wire, connectors, fuse box, and terminals. 

3)  Decide how long your RCA cables will need to be. You should take into account that the cable will be running from the center of the car, out to the side, and around several bends and curves. If you are installing the amp in your trunk you will most likely need a 20 ft. cable.  Hooker offers amplifier installation kits that include RCA cables or you can purchase them separately.

4)  It is often easier to just take out the seats, kick panels, and seal plates before starting. It just makes it easier to work, and often you need to do all that anyway. Removing the front seats is optional, but it gives you more room, easier to lift the carpet, and it is often best to run the wires there. As you remove the seats, take note of where they run close to the floor pan. It's easy to accidentally crush your wiring when bolting the seat down. Get your cordless drill and a socket set and your ready to begin.

Mounting the amp(s).

Find a good solid, flat surface to mount the amp to. Make sure it's not in a place that will be hot, and that it has proper ventilation. Amps can get hot anyway, and you must help them stay cool. You can mount the amplifier on a board with vinyl, or carpet on it for cosmetics if you want. Mounting to an amp board also reduces the amps contact with metal, which helps to prevent "ground loops".  

RCA Cables

1)  The RCA cable should be ran separately from the power wire to avoid possible noise issues from interference.

2)  Connect a remote turn on lead wire to your "power antenna" or "remote" lead from the head unit. Run the RCA cables, and remote lead, from the head unit, down the middle of the car, or down the opposite side of the car from the power cable. The remote lead will serve as a turn-on for your amp(s). This doesn't have to be very thick wire, 16 gauge is fine. If you have room, you can usually remove the seal plate, and lift the edge of the carpet, and run the cable(s) there, proceeding to the back of the car. Be sure not to put them anywhere they will get crushed by anything. Run all the wires to where the amp will be installed.

Positive Power Cable

1)  Disconnect the battery from the car's electrical system with the doors open.  You could run down the battery and it also helps you to avoid short circuits or blowing fuses.

2)  Find a spot to go through the firewall. Look for a plug that's already there. In most cars you should have no trouble finding one. When you find one, pull it out and punch a hole through it large enough to fit the power wire through. If there is none, don't worry. Just find a place to drill, on the same side as the battery, and install a grommet. Run the cable through the firewall, and up to the battery. Don't connect it to the battery till you are all done. Most cars will have grommets large enough to use. Don't worry if there already are factory wires in your grommet, just be careful not to damage them as you run the wire through. One helpful method is to get a long thick probe, tape your power wire to this probe, and run it through the grommet. If your wire is fairly large compared to the grommet, than you may wish to tape a smaller gauge wire to act as a leader.

3)  Place an in-line fuse within 6"-18" of the battery. One of these is included with our Hooker Amp kits. For most systems, a 50 or 60 amp fuse is plenty. If it's only a small amp 30 or 40 will do. DO NOT skip this fuse! This one is mandatory! It could stop your car from catching on fire in an accident.  The purpose of this fuse box is not to protect the amp, its purpose is to protect the wire in the event of a short between the battery and the amp.

4)  With the wire through the firewall, run the power cable to the back of the car, staying on the opposite side of the RCA cables. If you are going  to have more than one amp, you want to install a distribution fuse block. Connect the power cable to this fuse block. You then run another cable from the fuse box, to the amps positive (+) terminal.

Be sure to use split loom tubing to protect your power wire under the hood. Split loom tubing is corrugated tubing with a split down its center through which wires are placed. This is an IASCA requirement. Also, use loom anywhere a wire runs over a rough metal edge. Use wire ties to keep the wire from being drooped over your engine.  

Ground Cable

1)  This is important! First, install a ground cable from the negative post on the battery, to the chassis of the car.  If you can reach it, it's best to run to the firewall, since most cars are a nearly solid sheet of metal from the firewall to the trunk. The ground wire shouldn't be any longer than 24 inches. Make it the same size, or larger than the positive cable. Depending on how much current the amp draws, you will need a certain gauge wire. The remote wire (usually blue) is run from the remote wire on the head unit to the remote wire connection on the amp. This wire is responsible for turning the amp on and off when ever the head unit is on/off.

2)  Near the amp, install a ground distribution block.

3)  Find a spot as close as possible to the ground distribution block, to connect a ground cable. If possible try to use a pre-existing bolt to ground the wire. Screw, or drill, and use a bolt, and nut. If your going to drill, make sure you don't drill into your gas tank!  Whether you find a suitable bolt to use or if you have to drill a new hole, make sure you sand off all the paint, and put it right on the bare metal to ensure good grounding. You can use some Vaseline here to prevent corrosion, and rust.

4)  Now connect the cable from the chassis, to the distribution block.

5)  Run a piece of cable from the distribution block, to the amps negative (-) terminal.

Final Steps

1)  Connect the RCA cables to the amp(s). Do not connect them before you have grounded your amplifier, and wait till you connect the battery terminal. If the RCA's are hooked up the first time the amp (s) get a charge and the outer shield of the RCA's are grounded, the amp will try to take some of its ground through them, damaging the preamp of your radio and amplifier.

2)  Connect your remote lead to the amps remote connection.

3)  Connect your speaker wires to the amp.

4)  Go back and connect the positive cable to the positive terminal on the battery and reconnect the battery to the car.

5)  Now, if your amp(s) have gain controls (and most do nowadays) turn them all the way down to the minimum setting. Now turn it just a hair the other way.

6)  If you have built-in crossovers, set them the way you will be using them (hi-pass, low-pass, none, etc.). If they are adjustable, put them approximately where you think will be a good starting point.

7)  Turn the key on

8)  Turn on your head unit. Put in a good quality CD, or cassette.

9)  Slowly turn your head unit up to about 80-85% volume. If you hear any distortion, cut it back.

10)  Go back to the amp(s). SLOWLY raise the gain, and LISTEN for distortion. If you reach a point where the volume is louder then you will listen to, before you hear distortion, then stop there. Otherwise, keep going till you hear distortion, and cut it back slightly till it disappears. Remember that volume setting! That is the maximum volume you will want to play it at.

11)  It's not a good idea to play the head unit at full volume. That's where most distortion comes in. It may take you a long time to fine tune the gain and crossover for your amp(s).

12)  Grab some good CDs and go for a ride. Listen to all types of music, and stop the car, and make adjustments as necessary. If you have multiple amps, and an equalizer, it will take much longer to get it set the way you want it.

 

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